The knitting world has always had an unusually personal relationship with its brands.
We know the designers. We recognise the colour palettes. We follow founders on Instagram. A particular yarn can become almost inseparable from the patterns, photographs and community built around it.
So when Knitting for Olive announced that it had been acquired by Hawk Infinity, the reaction was inevitably bigger than a normal business transaction.
And first, this deserves saying clearly: what Knitting for Olive has built is extraordinary.
What began in 2015 as a family hobby project has grown into an international yarn and pattern company with a community of more than 700,000 knitters. Hawk Infinity has now acquired 100% of the company, while Knitting for Olive's founders have said that they will remain in the business and continue running it as they do today.
Building something valuable enough to reach that point is an achievement, not a failure of independence.
But the acquisition also raises an interesting question for the wider yarn industry:
What does scaling a craft business actually have to look like?
There is more than one way to grow
For a conventional yarn brand, growth often depends on repeatability.
Create a successful yarn. Produce it consistently. Expand the colour range. Increase production. Add retailers and markets. Build the operational infrastructure required to make sure the same product is available again and again.
At sufficient scale, that becomes a substantial manufacturing and distribution operation.
There is nothing inherently wrong with that model. In fact, consistency is precisely what many knitters need.
But Yarn Atelier was built around something structurally different.
A large part of what we sell already exists.
It may be surplus production, discontinued stock, redundant mill yarn, an unused colour run or a small quantity that simply no longer has a place in a manufacturer's current collection.
These yarns have already been spun. Already dyed. Already transported through part of their supply chain.
Our job is not necessarily to ask a mill to manufacture another identical batch.
Our job is to find exceptional material that already exists and connect it with the person who can use it.
So what does scale mean for us?
It certainly doesn't mean staying tiny.
We are ambitious about Yarn Atelier. We want to serve considerably more knitters, work with more mills, expand internationally and build much better technology and logistics around the way we source and sell yarn.
But our version of scale looks different.
- We don't need one yarn produced in ever-increasing quantities.
- We need a wider sourcing network.
- Better relationships with mills.
- Better systems for identifying available stock.
- Faster ways to catalogue hundreds of constantly changing yarns and colours.
- Better tools for helping a customer understand an unfamiliar yarn.
And better logistics for turning an industrial cone sitting in a mill or warehouse into exactly the quantity someone needs for a cardigan.
Our challenge is not how do we manufacture more of the same thing?
It is:
How do we make an enormous, constantly changing world of existing yarn accessible?
That is a very different infrastructure problem.
And frankly, we find it much more interesting.
Growth does not have to mean producing more
There is also a sustainability argument here that we think deserves more attention.
The yarn industry has already produced an astonishing amount of beautiful material.
If a wonderful cashmere, merino, silk or linen yarn already exists, there is value in finding a use for it before commissioning another production simply because the existing yarn is no longer part of a current collection.
This doesn't make knitting impact-free. Nothing we manufacture, ship or consume is impact-free.
But there is a meaningful difference between creating demand for additional production and making productive use of material that has already been made.
That principle sits at the centre of how we want Yarn Atelier to grow.
More customers should mean that we can rescue and redistribute more existing yarn, not simply order factories to manufacture progressively larger quantities for us.
And scale should not remove choice
There is another lesson in the conversation around Knitting for Olive that interests us.
Knitters can become extraordinarily loyal to brands.
Sometimes that is completely deserved. Brands can create wonderful products, beautiful patterns and communities worth belonging to.
But we also think there is enormous freedom in stepping outside the brand name.
A pattern may suggest one yarn. It does not mean that yarn is the only possible answer.
- You can choose by fibre.
- By construction.
- By texture.
- By colour.
- By how you live.
- By how you want the garment to behave.
- By what already exists.
That is one of the reasons Yarn Atelier carries such a strange and constantly changing mixture of yarns.
We would rather help someone ask:
“What is the right yarn for this project?”
than:
“Which brand am I supposed to buy?”
The real luxury is choice
As someone who handles these rescued cones every day, I experience this personally.
I can walk into our studio and choose from pure cashmere, Cariaggi, Loro Piana and some genuinely extraordinary and expensive yarns.
And yet I don't automatically choose any of them for my own knitting.
I choose according to the colours I wear, the texture I want, my lifestyle and whether I actually want the finished garment in my wardrobe.
Some of the most prestigious yarn in the studio has never tempted me to knit a garment from it.
It is beautiful.
It simply isn't necessarily my yarn.
To me, that is what luxury really means.
Not always having the most expensive option.
Having enough knowledge and enough choice that you don't need somebody else's definition of the best.
Scaling without losing the yarn
We hope Knitting for Olive's next chapter is a successful one.
Its growth from a family project into a company attractive to a long-term institutional owner is an impressive demonstration of how economically significant this supposedly cosy little craft industry has become.
For us, watching that transition has reinforced something slightly different.
We want Yarn Atelier to become much larger.
But we don't want growth to move us further away from the material.
We want it to make us better at finding it, understanding it and getting it into the hands of people who will actually use it.
- More mills.
- More countries.
- More yarn.
- Better systems.
But still the same fundamental question when a cone lands on the table:
What could someone make with this?
That, for us, is scale without losing the craft.
2 comments
I agree with the comment above. I haven’t – as yet – purchased anything in significant quantity from you as yet, but I am so glad to have found you because I really admire what you have set out to achieve. There is far too much waste in the textile and fashion industry and you have tapped into that in the best possible way. Keep on doing what you’re doing. I think you will build a huge fan base. Thank you
I love what your business stands for in the yarn industry and for the environment on the whole, and I wanted to say I appreciate the classy approach you took writing this article. There have been a lot of feelings regarding the KFO news and I have seen a lot of things said but thank you for drawing attention to the fact that these ladies do what they do so well to have found such success. And thanks for pointing the conversation to the whys and encouraging us all to see the bigger picture here. That can be hard to do and I think encouragement and gratitude in our conversation is important. <3