Ranking Yarn Fibres by Ecological Footprint: The Yarn Atelier Guide

Hi everyone, Roel and Aileen here.

Globally, the fashion industry is often cited as one of the most polluting industries in the world, second only to the oil and gas sector.

Because of this, when you choose yarn for your next project, you aren't just making decisions about texture, drape, and colour, you are making choices about the environment. However, what makes a yarn truly "sustainable" is a complex topic. Different knitters, crocheters and weavers value different things. For one person, avoiding synthetic materials is the main priority. For another, local farming, carbon accounting, or animal welfare is the most important factor.

The trigger to finally write this guide was a recent message in our community WhatsApp group. A customer shared a ranking of fibres she stumbled upon on Instagram, which sparked a great conversation about how sustainability isn't always black and white.

This guide explains how we at Yarn Atelier evaluate the ecological footprint of different fibres and materials. Sustainability in textiles is highly personal, and we want to share our perspective as an industry guide, not a strict rulebook. People from all walks of life will rank these issues differently based on their own values, and your personal ranking will probably differ from ours.

The Deadstock Factor: Our Primary Mission

Before we break down individual fibres, we need to highlight our core approach. At Yarn Atelier, our primary mission is to rescue deadstock and surplus yarn from fashion houses and mills.

We firmly believe the most sustainable yarn is the yarn that already exists. Producing any new fibre requires land, water, and energy. By rescuing surplus yarn that might otherwise go to a landfill, we bypass the initial environmental cost of production. Whether a cone is made of pure linen or a synthetic blend, saving it from becoming waste is a vital step in the circular economy.

The Supplier Difference: Responsible Production

Not all fibres are created equal, and neither are the mills that spin them. Over the last few months, we have spent countless hours digging deeper into the backgrounds, certifications, and chemical standards of the heritage mills we source from. We rescue surplus from over 30 world-renowned spinning mills, including industry leaders such as Cariaggi, Südwolle Group, Todd & Duncan, Zegna Baruffa, E.Miroglio, Filmar, and Tollegno 1900.

Through our conversations with suppliers and our research into third-party audits, we see firsthand how responsible production drastically alters the footprint of a raw material:

• Chemical & Water Management: Spinners like Cariaggi and Lanecardate implement the 4sustainability® protocol (aligned with ZDHC Level 3) to manage and monitor chemical use in their wastewater. Scotland’s Todd & Duncan operates an advanced water treatment system regulated by the Scottish Environment Protection Agency (SEPA) to safely return purified water back to Loch Leven.

• Renewable Energy & Traceability: Zegna Baruffa and Tollegno 1900 publish transparent ESG reports, power facilities with renewable energy, and maintain trace-to-farm supply chains evaluated under standards like the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and Nativa.

• Low-Impact Plant Fibres: Filmar participates in the Cotton for Life initiative and maintains GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) compliance for its organic cotton lines, alongside utilizing Coloralyze low-impact dyeing methodologies.

Of course, every industry has its critics, and sustainability standards are continually evolving. Because the mill matters just as much as the raw material, we are currently working on a directory page that will break down the sustainability scores, certifications, and backgrounds of all our main partner mills to keep this conversation as transparent as possible.

The Three Pillars of Our Ranking Framework

To evaluate the baseline footprint of standard commercial fibres, we examine three core areas:

• Environmental Impact (Land Use): Measures the land required to grow the plant or graze the animal, factoring in soil health and land management.

• Ecological Impact (Water and Energy Use): Measures the resources needed to process the fibre, including water consumption, energy use, and chemical processing.

• Animal Welfare Impact: Evaluates standard commercial farming practices, shearing standards, and general animal care.

The Yarn Atelier Fibre Ranking Table

The table below ranks raw materials based on standard global commercial production, from generally lowest baseline impact (1) to highest baseline impact (20). We grade the impact across our three pillars using a scale of Low, Medium, and High.

Important Note: This table reflects standard global commercial averages. "High" indicates a larger environmental footprint or higher negative impact. Because Yarn Atelier exclusively rescues deadstock surplus, much of it spun by certified top-tier mills, the real-world environmental impact of our specific yarns is vastly lower than standard global baselines.

*Animal Welfare Impact refers specifically to direct livestock farming and handling practices.

Understanding the Categories

To help explain our reasoning, we have grouped these materials into four primary categories.

1. Plant Bast Fibres (Hemp, Linen, Ramie)

These are the most efficient natural fibres to grow. Plants like hemp and flax (used for linen) require minimal watering and naturally resist pests without heavy chemical use. They grow rapidly, enrich the soil, and carry zero animal welfare concerns.

2. Animal Fibres (Alpaca, Wool, Merino, Cashmere, Silk, Angora)

The baseline impact of animal fibres depends heavily on land management and farming practices:

• Alpacas, Yaks, and Camels: These animals have soft padded feet that step lightly on soil, and they graze without uprooting native plants.

• Sheep (Wool and Merino): Require moderate land and water. High-tier mills monitor their supply chains through third-party audited guidelines such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS).

• The Cashmere Nuance: Standard commercial cashmere ranks lower due to land damage caused by mass overgrazing in parts of Central Asia. However, the cashmere we rescue comes from elite mills like Todd & Duncan and Cariaggi, which source fibres adhering to protocols set by organisations such as the Sustainable Fibre Alliance (SFA).

• Angora: Carries a high welfare impact because of the standard commercial plucking or shearing methods used on the rabbits.

• Silk: Has a medium to high ecological impact because standard processing requires significant energy and water, while traditional harvesting raises welfare considerations. For a deeper look into how silk is produced and how different types compare, check out our guide on the truth about ethical silk and our breakdown of Bourette silk vs. Mulberry silk.

*Note: By sourcing Silk and Angora exclusively as deadstock, we ensure no new agricultural resources or animals are used to create your project materials.

3. Plant Cellulose & Cotton (Modal, Viscose, Cotton)

Standard industrial cotton consumes heavy amounts of water and chemicals. However, this footprint shifts entirely when sourcing from mills like Filmar, which hold certifications like GOTS for their organic cotton lines. To explore how different cotton fibres compare, read our guide on luxury cotton yarns, covering Pima and mercerised options.

Wood-derived fibres like Viscose and Modal vary by processing method; closed systems (common in Modal) capture and reuse up to 99% of processing chemicals and water. You can learn more in our complete guide to knitting and crocheting with beechwood Modal yarn.

4. Synthetic Fibres & Metallic Accents (Polyester, Nylon, Polyamide, Acrylic, Lurex)

Newly made synthetics rank lower on global baselines due to their use of fossil fuels and high manufacturing energy. Washing synthetic garments also requires thoughtful care, such as using a microfibre-catching wash bag, to prevent shedding.

However, synthetic blends provide valuable strength, memory, and sparkle to garments. Because synthetic materials do not break down quickly in nature, rescuing them as deadstock is essential. Diverting synthetic and lurex mill surplus from landfills into cherished, handmade clothing is a core victory for a sustainable crafting community.

Delightful Unboxing, Zero Theatrical Waste

Have you ever bought a skein/cone or cake of yarn shipped inside a custom-printed, foil-stamped magnetic box filled with branded tissue or just air? It looks wonderful on social media, but you are paying a massive premium for rubbish that goes straight into your recycling bin.

At Yarn Atelier, our packaging is simple, but it still has a soul. Each cone and cake gets wrapped in protective paper and sealed with a little Yarn Atelier sticker (because yes, we love a bit of branding too!). Our boxes are straightforward, but we do love a good surprise. We often sneak a little gift into your parcel. Sometimes it is a stitch marker, a tape measure, a silly feel-good sticker, or a needle stopper. We do this because we want to delight you and make your unboxing experience genuinely worthwhile, without being aggressively wasteful. We also try to avoid shipping air, so sometimes it is a squeeze into the box, but never compromising quality! 

Final Thoughts

Navigating sustainable crafting is a journey. If you prioritise local farming, native wool might be your top pick. If you prefer breathable plant fibres, linen or organic cotton is ideal. By rescuing deadstock surplus from world-class spinners and keeping our packaging footprint light, we aim to provide high-quality materials for every preference while keeping existing luxury fibres out of the waste stream.

Explore our latest  yarn arrivals to find your next sustainable project!